When learning about your hair, many people tend to pay more attention to their curl pattern while overlooking other important factors like how their hair feels, how it absorbs moisture, and how thick it is. It can be enjoyable for one to identify which numerical and alphabetical category the shape of one’s waves and curls belong to. However, it is crucial to recognize that the curl pattern holds the least significance when establishing an effective hair care regimen and selecting appropriate products. This is not to undermine the importance of understanding one's curl pattern, but rather to highlight its comparatively lesser role in the overall equation.
Hair porosity relates to the structure of the outermost layer of your hair, known as the cuticle. This layer acts as a barrier, regulating the movement of moisture and oils between the outer and inner layers of your hair, known as the Cortex. The Cortex, located in the middle and thickest part of your hair, houses protein and the pigment responsible for your hair color. Hair porosity is a measure of the cuticles ability to absorb and retain moisture. Hair porosity is categorized by three levels, low, medium and high. Your porosity can be the result of genetics, but can also be altered by environmental factors like chemical, heat and sun damage. It is important to understand your hair porosity to determine the products and haircare routine that is suitable for you.
How do I determine my hair porosity? You can take the porosity quiz on our page or try the following tests:
1. Float test: (disclaimer: this test can yield the most inaccurate results)
Take a strand of hair free of product and place it in a cup of water. Let it sit for a few minutes then observe the position of the hair strand
Low porosity - the hair floats to the top of the water since moisture isn’t able to penetrate
Normal porosity - the hair floats in the middle of the water (may slowly sink)
High porosity - the hair will sink to the bottom of the glass immediately since the cuticles are lifted.
2. Water test:
Take a small section of your product free hair and mist it with some water from a spray bottle. Watch closely.
Low porosity - Many visible drops of water that are not absorbed
Normal porosity - You notice the water sitting on the hair for a few seconds before absorbing in
High porosity - All water absorbs quickly
3. Strand test:
Take a strand of hair and slide your fingers up it, toward your scalp
Low porosity - If the strand is smooth
Normal porosity - if it is smooth with 1 or 2 bumps
High Porosity - If the strand is bumpy
Now that you know your hair porosity, let’s take a deeper look into what your porosity means, your porosities characteristics and what products are best for you.
Low Porosity:
Low porosity hair has a cuticle layer that is tightly closed. This means that it is hard for moisture to penetrate into the cortex, but once in, it is difficult for the moisture to escape. Since the cuticle layers are tightly closed, your hair will take awhile to get fully wet, but once wet it takes a few days to air dry. Low porosity hair tends to be prone to product build-up from unabsorbed products.
The best products for low porosity hair will be lightweight, hydrating and water based. Products containing fatty alcohols and humectants like glycerin are also beneficial for penetrating the cuticle and attracting moisture to your hair. Applying products to wet hair and using steam, or a heat cap can help open the cuticle to allow your hair to absorb the product better. The LCO method is best for retaining moisture with low porosity hair. Rinsing with warm water is better than cold to allow the cuticle to raise to accept moisture.
Since low porosity hair is prone to build-up, it is important to clarify the scalp intermittently and avoid heavy products. Low porosity hair is known to be protein sensitive so it is best to stay clear of products containing a lot of protein, as well as protein treatments because protein pulls moisture from the hair. With this being said, if your hair becomes limp, mushy or undefined it is a sign that you need protein. Our hair is made up of protein so incorporating absorbable proteins will maintain a proper moisture balance. Proteins that are hydrolyzed are the best for low porosity hair and will only have to be used once every 5-6 weeks or more.
Products to consider for low porosity hair:
Black Berry Shampoo (Clarifying shampoo)
Black Berry Conditioner (Restores moisture after shampoo)
Morning Moringa Deep Conditioner (Once every 5 weeks)
Cocoa Hibiscus Leave-in (Lightweight and water based)
Centella Hair Oil (Lightweight oil)
Medium Porosity:
Medium porosity hair has a cuticle layer that is slightly open to allow enough moisture to penetrate to the cortex, but not too wide open so moisture does not escape. The hair cuticle allows the right amount of moisture in and out more easily. Since medium hair porosity is well balanced, use moisture and protein periodically to maintain the balance.
Medium porosity hair loves light oils, conditioners, serums, rinses and sprays. Medium porosity hair should use light, colorless shampoos. Hair should be deep conditioned 1-2 times a month. Chemical, heat, and environmental damage can cause changes to medium porosity over time
Products to consider for medium porosity hair:
Black Berry Conditioner (Restores moisture after shampoo)Morning Moringa Deep Conditioner
Cocoa Hibiscus Leave-in (Lightweight and water based)
Centella Hair Oil (Lightweight oil)
Maidenhair Pomade (For extremely parched scalp)
High Porosity:
High porosity hair has a raised cuticle that is wide open allowing moisture to be absorbed easily but also lost easily. Since moisture is lost easily, hair dries out quickly, tangles and becomes frizzy. High porosity hair can be genetic or the result of chemical and heat damage.
With this hair type, sealing the cuticle is important. High porosity hair loves products that are rich in moisture like creamy conditioners, heavy butters, and sealant oils to help your hair absorb and trap moisture. High porosity hair needs products with proteins to help smooth the cuticle down and create a protective coat over the hair shaft. You will need to still use moisturizing products that are free of protein since protein can push the moisture out of the hair. Avoid using excessive or high heat, as heat can lift the cuticle further, allowing moisture to escape the cortex. The LOC method is best for high porosity hair to retain moisture. One secret to help the cuticle lay flat so you don’t lose moisture is to spray your hair with ACV after the LOC method, or simply use products that are already pH balanced. Rinsing with cold water is best to seal the cuticle and prevent frizz in highly porous hair. High porosity hair can be washed less often to prevent further drying, but when you do wash use a clarifying shampoo to cleanse build-up from heavy products.
Products to consider for High porosity hair (All pH balanced):
Black Berry Shampoo (clarify scalp)
Black Berry Conditioner (Restores moisture after shampoo)
Morning Moringa Deep Conditioner
Cocoa Hibiscus Leave-in (Very moisturizing)
Centella Hair Oil (For sealing moisture)
Maidenhair Pomade (For extremely parched scalp and retaining moisture)
In conclusion, when exploring your hair type, it's crucial not to fixate solely on your curl pattern. Understanding your hair's porosity is key in selecting the appropriate products that will nourish and maintain the well-being of your waves and curls. By prioritizing porosity, you can ensure that your hair remains happy and healthy.